Textiles of the Phu Thai of Laos

This thesis documents the hand-woven textiles that the Phu Thai ethnic group living in Savannakhet Province, Laos, produce. The various stages of textile production and the uses of textiles in Phu Thai society, especially as identity markers, are also examined. Textiles of neighboring groups are also investigated to how knowledge of textile technology, types, and aesthetics are transferred between the Phu Thai and other ethnicities, specifically the Lao and Katang. The study's field research was primarily undertaken in Savannakhet Province, Laos, during 2004 with follow-up visits in 2005, 2006, and 2009. The research methods included participant and non-participant observation, informal interviewing, and analyses of textiles found in the field and in private collections. The study concludes that the Phu Thai produce a wide range of textiles from a variety of materials, techniques, and designs. It also finds that Phu Thai weavers constantly alter their textiles to fit the demands of their culture, and the textiles embody changes this group has experienced over time. The Phu Thai have adapted their textiles throughout their history, including assimilation or domestication of materials and aesthetics into their textile repertoire or a domestication of foreign elements. The domestication of textiles has coincided with the inclusion of related foreign vocabulary into Phu Thai language. Textiles continue to serve roles in present-day Phu Thai society, such as identity markers. As the Phu Thai negotiate their identity in the multi-ethnic nation of Laos, they manipulate textiles to represent their ethnic identity. External forces, such as tourism, economics, and media, also utilize Phu Thai textiles as distinctive identity markers, affecting production and the use of textiles. The commercial production of Phu Thai textiles allows for the continuation of this heritage while providing a source of income for Phu Thai households. Commercialization has allowed for innovations in production, merchandising and marketing, leading to increased creativity and improved quality of Phu Thai textiles.